Blacklight (200w) (2 Pack)

Where 200W UV Floods Make the Difference

• UV Foam Parties — This is the primary use case. Combine these blacklights with UV-reactive foam colorant and your foam machine, and the foam glows. Not faintly — intensely. The 200W output ensures enough UV saturation to make the glow visible even in partially lit outdoor environments. Two lights covering opposite angles of the foam zone eliminate dark spots where the effect dies. This is the difference between a foam party and a glow foam party.
• Glow Parties & Neon Nights — White clothing, neon colors, UV-reactive paint, glow accessories — all of it comes alive under these floods. At 500 sq ft per light, a 2-pack covers a dance floor, stage, or contained outdoor party zone. Perfect for schools, college events, corporate team builds, and nightclub glow nights.
• Haunted Houses & Halloween Events — UV-reactive paint on walls, costumes, and props creates effects you can't achieve with standard lighting. Teeth glow. White fabric glows. UV-painted details appear from nowhere. The waterproof rating means these work in outdoor haunted trails and fog-heavy environments where moisture is constant.
• Stage & Performance Lighting — UV floods are a staple of stage design for dance performances, theater, concerts, and DJ sets. Mount to truss, aim at the stage, and UV-reactive costumes and set pieces pop. The wide beam angle covers large stage areas without needing dozens of fixtures.
• Art Installations & Immersive Experiences — UV-reactive murals, fluorescent sculptures, interactive glow rooms. The adjustable bracket and IP66 rating mean these work in galleries, outdoor installations, pop-up experiences, and festival art spaces.
• Outdoor Events Where Ambient Light Is a Factor — This is where wattage matters. Cheap 50W blacklights work in a pitch-dark room. But outdoors — at dusk, with string lights, near parking lot lights, with any ambient illumination — you need serious UV output to overpower competing light sources. 200W per fixture does that. Lower-wattage blacklights wash out. These don't.

Built for Events, Not Bedrooms

200W High-Output UV-A LEDs
These are not the 10W or 30W blacklight strips you've seen online. At 200 watts per fixture, they produce the UV intensity needed to make fluorescent materials glow visibly across large spaces — including outdoor environments with competing ambient light. The difference between a weak blacklight and a 200W flood is the difference between a faint shimmer and an unmistakable glow that guests notice the instant they walk in.

365–400nm Wavelength (UV-A Band)
The 365–400nm range is the fluorescence sweet spot. This is the UV-A wavelength band that excites fluorescent dyes, UV-reactive paints, neon pigments, and optical brighteners in white fabric most efficiently. It's also the safest UV band for human exposure — UV-A is what you experience in natural sunlight, and at event distances, these fixtures present no meaningful risk to skin or eyes under normal use conditions.

IP66 Waterproof Rating
IP66 means the fixture is sealed against both dust ingress and powerful water jets from any direction. For foam parties, this is critical — foam, splashing water, hose overspray, and rain are all part of the operating environment. These lights handle all of it without needing weather covers, bags, or any protective accessories. Set them up, aim them at the foam zone, and they perform in conditions that would destroy non-rated fixtures.

Aluminum Alloy Housing with Tempered Glass
The aluminum body serves as both a structural shell and a passive heat sink — it draws heat away from the LEDs and dissipates it across the housing surface, extending LED lifespan and preventing thermal throttling during extended operation. The tempered glass lens is impact-resistant and protects the LED array from physical damage during transport and setup. These are built for repeated load-in/load-out cycles, not one-time use.

Adjustable Mounting Bracket
The integrated bracket allows the fixture to sit on the ground (angled up at the foam zone or stage), mount to a wall, bolt to truss, or hang from any standard rigging point. The bracket adjusts to let you aim the light precisely where you need UV coverage. No additional hardware needed for most mounting scenarios.

Universal Voltage (AC 100–240V, 50/60Hz)
Works on any standard power outlet worldwide. No transformers, no voltage converters, no special circuits. Plug in and go — whether you're at a US venue on 120V or running events internationally on 220V.

2-Pack Configuration
Sold as a pair because that's the minimum for even UV coverage. One light creates shadows. Two lights from opposing positions cross-illuminate the space, eliminating dark zones and ensuring the glow effect is visible from every angle. For foam parties, this means the foam glows uniformly — not just the side facing one light.

The UV Glow Party Ecosystem

UV-Reactive Foam Colorant →
This is the product that makes the blacklights and foam machine work together. Mix UV-reactive colorant into your foam solution, fire up the foam machine, aim these blacklights at the foam zone, and the foam glows. Without the colorant, the blacklights make white clothing and neon accessories glow — which is great — but with the colorant, the foam itself becomes the glowing element. That's the upgrade from "glow party" to "UV foam party."

Foam Blaster Pro-X → / Foam Blaster Maxx →
The foam machines that fill the space these blacklights illuminate. The Pro-X in ooze mode creates thick, stacking foam that absorbs and reflects UV light beautifully — every surface of every bubble glows when the colorant and blacklights are dialed in. The Maxx's high-velocity cannon output sprays glowing foam across the crowd.

Foam Solution — Ready to Run →
The base solution the foam colorant mixes into. Fresh, properly mixed solution at 75:1 produces the dense foam that holds colorant evenly throughout the bubble structure. Weak solution = weak foam = uneven glow.

Haze Machines (Banshee / Phantom) →
Here's a pro trick: haze in a UV-lit space creates visible UV beams cutting through the air. The haze particles scatter the UV light, making the blacklight beams themselves visible — the same way fog reveals a laser beam. Combined with glowing foam, the effect is layered and immersive. The Banshee water-based hazer is ideal for this since its fine haze hangs without settling.

Fog Machines (Tempest 3000W / Hydra) →
Heavy fog and UV creates a different look — a low-lying, glowing mist that carpets the ground. The Hydra's ground-hugging output under blacklight creates a supernatural floor effect. Combined with glowing foam from above, you're building a fully immersive UV environment.

Cold Spark Machines →
Cold sparks under UV light add a third visual element — the titanium spark effect contrasts against glowing foam and UV-lit haze. The sparks themselves don't fluoresce, but the contrast between white-hot sparks and glowing UV foam is visually dramatic.

Frequently Asked Questions

Are these safe?
Yes. These emit UV-A radiation (365–400nm), which is the same UV band present in natural sunlight. UV-A is the safest of the three UV bands (A, B, C) and is the standard for all commercial blacklight applications — from nightclubs to theaters to amusement parks. At normal event distances (10+ feet), UV-A from these fixtures is safe for skin and eyes during typical event durations. The one precaution: don't stare directly into the LED array at close range for extended periods, just as you wouldn't stare at any high-intensity light source.

How many do I need?
Each light covers up to 500 sq ft. This 2-pack covers approximately 1,000 sq ft when positioned at opposing angles. For a standard foam party zone (20×30 ft / 600 sq ft), one 2-pack is sufficient. For larger areas (30×40 ft / 1,200 sq ft), use two 2-packs (4 lights total) at the corners. For very large outdoor events or festivals, add more as needed — more lights means more uniform glow and fewer shadow dead spots.

Do they work outdoors?
Yes — both in terms of weather resistance (IP66 waterproof) and UV performance. However, outdoor UV lighting requires more intensity than indoor because ambient light (streetlights, dusk, sky glow) competes with the UV effect. This is exactly why 200W matters — lower-wattage blacklights wash out in outdoor environments where there's any ambient light at all. At 200W per fixture, these overpower typical outdoor ambient conditions and maintain a visible glow effect. For best results outdoors, run after dark and minimize competing light sources near the UV zone.

Do they make foam glow?
Not on their own. Standard foam solution is not UV-reactive. To make foam glow under blacklights, you need to add UV-reactive foam colorant to your foam solution mix. The colorant contains fluorescent pigments that absorb UV light and re-emit it as visible color — that's what creates the glow. Blacklights + foam machine + UV colorant = glowing foam. Without the colorant, the blacklights will still make white clothing, neon accessories, and UV paint glow — just not the foam itself.

What's the difference between 365nm and 395nm?
365nm produces stronger fluorescence with less visible purple light — the UV is "invisible," so fluorescent materials glow more dramatically against a darker background. 395nm produces a visible purple light along with the UV, so the room has a purple tint. These fixtures cover the 365–400nm range, giving you both strong fluorescence and enough visible purple to create the classic "blacklight look" that guests recognize. For foam parties and glow events, this range is ideal — you get intense glow from UV-reactive materials plus the visible purple atmosphere.

Can I use them with fog or haze?
Absolutely — and you should. Haze particles scatter UV light, making the blacklight beams visible in the air (the same way fog reveals a laser beam). This adds a dramatic atmospheric layer on top of the glowing foam effect. A Banshee water-based hazer is ideal for this — its fine, persistent haze creates beautiful UV beam effects without settling or obscuring the foam.

How do I mount them?
The integrated adjustable bracket handles most scenarios without additional hardware. Ground placement: Set the light on the floor, angle the bracket to aim upward at the foam zone or stage. Wall mount: Use the bracket holes to bolt to a wall at height, angled downward. Truss mount: Use a standard clamp (not included) to attach the bracket to truss or pipe rigging. For foam parties, ground placement at opposing corners of the foam zone is the fastest and most common setup.

How long can they run?
These are LED fixtures with passive heat sinking through the aluminum housing. LEDs generate far less heat than traditional UV fluorescent tubes, and the aluminum body dissipates what heat they do produce. They're designed for extended continuous operation — running a full evening event is standard use. LED lifespan is typically rated at 50,000+ hours, so longevity is measured in years of regular event use, not individual events.

Will they damage my foam machine or other equipment?
No. UV-A at this wavelength and power level does not damage plastics, metals, or electronics under normal event exposure. The fixtures are aimed at the event space, not at equipment internals. UV-A can cause gradual fading of some dyes and pigments with prolonged exposure over months or years, but this is not a factor at event durations.

Maximize the Glow

Position at Opposing Angles — Not Side by Side
Two blacklights next to each other create one big light source with the same shadow problem as a single light. Put them at opposite corners or opposite sides of the foam zone, angled inward. This cross-illumination means every surface gets UV from at least one direction, and the glow effect is visible from all angles. For a rectangular foam zone, diagonal corners work best.

Elevate When Possible
Blacklights on the ground pointing up work, but blacklights elevated 6–10 feet and angled down work better. Elevation means the UV hits the top of the foam pile — which is what guests see — rather than lighting the base and leaving the top dim. If you have truss, pipe, or even a tall stand, get the fixtures up high and aim down into the foam zone at a 30–45° angle.

Kill Competing Light
UV glow is a contrast effect — fluorescent materials emit visible light that's only impressive when there's not much other visible light around. Every white light, work light, or ambient source near the foam zone steals from the glow effect. Dim or turn off all non-UV lighting in the glow zone. If you need navigational lighting for safety, use very dim red or amber lights — they don't compete with UV fluorescence the way white light does.

Add Haze for Visible UV Beams
This is an underused trick that looks incredible. Run a hazer (the Banshee is perfect) to put a light haze in the air over the foam zone. The haze particles scatter the UV light, making the blacklight beams themselves visible as purple shafts of light cutting through the space. The visual effect — glowing foam below, visible UV beams above, haze diffusing the atmosphere — is worth the 5 minutes of setup.

Don't Forget the Colorant
Blacklights alone make white clothing and neon accessories glow — which is a great baseline. But if you want the foam to glow, you need UV-reactive foam colorant mixed into the foam solution. This is the step that first-timers miss. Without colorant, the foam is just foam under purple light. With colorant, the foam becomes the light source — every bubble fluoresces, and the entire foam zone glows. Mix the colorant into the barrel with the foam solution before running the machine.

Test Before the Crowd Arrives
Set up the blacklights, mix a small batch of solution with colorant, run a short burst from the foam machine, and check the glow effect before the event goes live. This test takes 10 minutes and catches problems you can't fix once guests are in the space — wrong colorant ratio (too faint), blacklight positioning (dead spots), competing light sources (washing out the glow), or haze levels (too much / too little). Adjust during the test, not during the party.

Protect the Power Connections
The fixtures are IP66 waterproof — the power cord and plug are not. In foam party environments where water and foam are everywhere, the plug connection is the weak point. Keep plugs elevated off the ground, use weather-rated extension cords, and make sure everything runs through a GFCI-protected circuit. The lights won't fail from water exposure, but a wet plug connection can trip a breaker and kill your UV at the worst moment.

Store Clean and Dry
After events — especially foam parties — wipe down the tempered glass lens and housing with a damp cloth. Foam residue and colorant can film over the glass and reduce UV output over time. The IP66 rating means you can even hose them off if needed. Dry before storing. Clean glass = maximum UV transmission = maximum glow.